As I awoke in Finisterre on Saturday September 23rd, a shocking realization awaited me. I would have to say goodbye to Katrin very soon. She was leaving at 8:40 with the bus back to Santiago and taking an airplane back to Germany. I was very tired and had skipped a shower the night before so a shower was necessary that morning. We followed her to the bus station and said our goodbyes. She and Molly had decided that they were going to visit me in Iceland for New Years Eve so I knew I'd see her again and pretty soon at that. It was sad but it was another moment that reminded me of how great it was that we'd made such a strong connection in such a short time.
Molly and I sat down at the pier and watched the sunrise. If the sunset last night marked our deaths the sunrise had to mark our rebirth. Our true resurrection would happen in Muxía, according to legend that is. After we had seen the sunrise we had some good breakfast and then took a taxi to Muxía. We would have had to take 2 buses and wait 2 hours for the second one so we just enjoyed the fact that taxi's are cheep in Spain.
Muxía is beautiful and the people there are so wonderful. When we got there we were wondering where we could keep our bags as we looked around town. We asked the first restaurant/pension we found if we could stow our bags with them and it was not a problem. Such nice people, such a nice place.
We walked around town and saw the sights. We were really relaxed and had enjoyed the fact that we didn't need to put on our walking boots that day immensely. Luck followed us as the clouds parted for us to further enjoy the day. We went to a church up on a hill and followed a path that lead us to a viewpoint on top of a hill (it was called a mountain on the sign). We saw the monument that was below us, the town and the coastlines in all directions. Then we went to the monument and next to another church by the sea. We sat by the rocks on the coast as the sea beat them relentlessly and just kept on enjoying our slow, relaxed, leisurely day. It was so nice. Molly and I just get along so well and I guess we figured out right there and then that we had become the best of friends, although we didn't say it until later that day.
After our chilled out walk around town we returned to the restaurant and did what we had decided to do. We knew that in Muxía you were supposed to be reborn and we had talked about writing down what we wanted to do with what we had learned on the Camino, what we wanted to put into action after the trip. We did exactly that! It was transformational to say the least and powerful to finally have on paper what I had decided and realized I should do on this trip. Muxía was the perfect place for it, yet another unmissable place on my Camino.
We just had one part of the ritual left and that was to swim in the sea. Neither of us were really in the mood for it, but we wanted to do something in that direction. So we went to the sea and walked in it for a while. A nice moment, a treasure in itself. When we got out of the water we found Andreas. He was sitting there with his girlfriend who had surprised him in Santiago as he was coming back from Finisterre. It was great to see him and we shared a bus back to Santiago with him.
We decided to stay at Seminaro Menor when we got back to Santiago and I really felt that my Camino was over. I went to the computer and searched and searched for a flight home the next day but I couldn't find one. Every flight had me stay at least one night somewhere. But finally I found a flight home. I would fly the next day at 6:50 from Santiago to Madrid, from there to Amsterdam and finally from there to Iceland. I kept singing "I'm going home" from Rocky Horror Picture show...I was ready to go home.
After that I went to the center of town with Molly and Pia. We had a nice night out, shopped a little and then we went to a fancy restaurant. We sat there probably much longer than we had expected to sit and talked about confidence, relationships and things in that nature. When we got back to the Albergue it was time for goodbyes. I would have to wake up at 5:00 in the morning. I and Molly said goodbye and told each other that the other was one of our best friends. As many beautiful moments it was sad and powerful. Pia talked with me in my room as I packed my backpack and got as ready as I could. I wanted to be able run out in the morning without having to do much.
The day had been a real rebirth. As Lazarus before him, Gulli Bergmann was resurrected and hopefully for the better. Only time can tell but already I felt different...and most certainly in a good way!
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Monday, September 26, 2011
The death of Gulli Bergmann
Soon after I finished my last blog, Thursday September 22nd, I went up to our room. Molly was there and was going early to bed. Instead she ended up watching a podcast I had on my Ipod entitled "The mystery box" and it's a Ted.com lecture by J.J. Abrams. I took a shower meanwhile and afterwords we talked about this great podcast and what it meant to us. Somehow we ended up talking again about my choice of profession, my passion for movies and whether or not I would want to go to school again right now. I told her that I really wanted to become an active member in society again, to pay taxes, to get a monthly salary and just to have a normal job again. She told me that the way I said it sounded like it was in fact a dream I had, there was passion behind it. I had never thought of it like that, to me it was a chore. I had to get a steady job and work normal hours, but she made me realize that it was something I truly wanted...there was passion behind my desire, it was in fact a dream of mine! Yet another revolutionary revelation in overtime! :)
It was kind of funny that when Katrin came in and after we turned off the lights, I felt like we were in a dorm or on a school trip, talking to each other in the dark. It felt like I'd known them forever but actually I hadn't even known them for a month!
The beds ended up being too comfortable and we slept longer than expected. We had a long day ahead of us, a long walk that is. That day was the day that we would get to the end of the world. As I've told you Finisterre was believed to be the end of the world. The legend about Finisterre says that when you get there you die. We were all facing our deaths today and were happy for it!
We started our walks as many others, with me singing. This time I was singing "Follow the yellow brick road" from "Wizard of Oz" but I had changed it slightly. We always follow yellow arrows as we travel so I sang "Follow the yellow arrows". We ended up discussing, philosophically, who we were in the story "The Wizard of Oz". Dorothy was looking for a way home, the Scare Crow was looking for a brain, the Tin man was looking for a heart and the Lion was looking for courage. I had to admit that with my discovery the day before about dedication that I was the Lion. I seemed to lack the courage to dedicate my life to any one thing, to forgo my freedom to become a master at anything really. Today that part of me would die. Today I would arrive in Finisterre and as the sun would set the old me would die.
We had a good morning and were more energetic than the day before. The way split and one way led to Muxía, where I and Molly were heading the day after. We were wondering whether we should walk there or just take a bus but the pilgrimage really ends in Finisterre. We had gone back and forth on the subject but sure enough the day would end up showing us exactly what was the right choice in the matter.
Which is sort of what happened with the walk to Finisterre. I had known about the extra 101 km walk from the beginning and on the days when I was feeling well on the Camino I was sure that I was going to walk there too. But on the days when I was feeling like shit and just walking all the way to Santiago was pain enough, I couldn't imagine walking any further. I just kept telling myself that I would decide when I was in Santiago. Even though I had decided that, the thought popped in my mind every single time I felt like I had gotten a handle on things and I was finally in good enough shape to keep going or when I felt like my body was going to fall apart and I had discovered yet another physical problem. I'm really glad I didn't decide until I was in Santiago, the victory rush was so powerful that of course I decided that I would walk all the way to Finisterre. And by God am I grateful for that decision; I would have missed out on such wonderful company, gorgeous scenery and amazing discoveries on every stage of my life. I guess I could have taken a bus, I was always going to go here, but I could as well have skipped it as doing it like that. It had to be the walk and I was on it!
We met a German couple and they had walked the north way of the Camino. He and I had a long interesting talk and he told me that she was going to Ghana next year to teach English. This has been a long standing dream for me and was one of the things I was considering to do after the Camino was over. The order in which she was doing it told me that no matter what I decide to do, I can come back to that. I can go to Africa and volunteer there even if I don't do it right now. Not everything I want to do has to happen right now, it can happen in stages. After yesterday and last night I realized that getting a steady job is the first stage of my plan, but certainly not the last. And volunteering is definitely one stage as well!
We walked all the way to a town by the sea. We hadn't seen the sea all our trip and it was quite impressive. I forgot to mention that the morning had greeted us with fog. Mysterious, magical and amazing fog! It had made the entire trip that morning a day where anything could happen, a true adventure. In the landscape we traveled in it was truly mystifying. As we came into the sea town it was so beautiful to see it in the fog. I've always loved fog and how it truly creates a world of it's own. What you can't see becomes whatever your mind wants it to be and as I wrote, you feel as if anything can happen. For those that want to know what J.J. Abrams and I have to say on the subject of mystery, you can just listen to the master here.
I was tired after walking straight for 20 km. The uneven surface of the last 5 km had left my left ankle very sore and my big toe and the toe next to it on my right foot even tenser. We stopped in the town for a while, but not long enough for my feet to recover. Now that I'm back home I realize there wasn't a long enough rest available there for my feet to recover so it doesn't really matter! ;)
As we walked the last part of the Camino, for Finisterre is truly the end, with every step we realized more and more that we were truly done. This was the end. The town Finisterre was 34 km from where we started that day and then the cape Finisterre, where the end of the world was believed to be was another 3,5 km away. When we had about 9 km left to the town and we were talking about the fact that we were done walking I said it out loud. Every step after that seemed heavier somehow. I kept going on pure willpower, I was going to make it to the end of the world.
The town was so beautiful and the coastline leading up to it made the walk to the end of town a great experience. The Albergue we were going to sleep in was full but we found a nice one not so far away. We met Ali and Robert when we got into town and decided to go to the End of the World together, the cape 3,5 km away. We left our backpacks at the Albergue and went to the municipal Albergue where you get your certificate for walking to Finisterre. You get a certificate for walking to Santiago but also for walking there and I have to say that the Finisterre one is even more beautiful than the one you get in Santiago.
As the 5 of us, Molly, Katrin, Ali, Robert and I, started our walk to the End of the World I truly noticed how much harder walking with a backpack is. Now without our backpacks we could have walked forever. We had already walked 34 km that day but without the backpack it sure didn't feel like it. Hehehe I had to walk more than 900 km to figure out exactly how much more difficult walking with a backpack is! :)
As we came closer and closer to the End of the World my super luck kicked in. The clouds started to part and we could see the sky. All day it had been foggy and cloudy. A big part of the tradition of Finisterre is to watch the sunset. No one believed that we would be able to see it today. When we were in the town and said we were going to the cape people asked us why we were going since we wouldn't see the sunset. But sure enough the sun came out to greet us and then allow us to watch it set down and mark our deaths.
At the end of the road there is a marker that reads "0.000 km". When we got to it we knew; we were done. It was a beautiful feeling. Arriving in Santiago was a much bigger feeling of victory but it wasn't until I arrived at that sign that I knew that my Camino was over. I almost missed that feeling of completion, I almost didn't walk here. I'm so glad I didn't make that mistake.
Another part of the ritual of Finisterre is to burn your clothes. As we positioned ourselves in the rocks at the end of the cape to watch the sunset I took off my t-shirt, actually the t-shirt I started the Camino with and had now ended it in, and I burned it there on the cape with the rays of the sun lighting up my ceremony. I didn't have anything to make it burn properly but some Germans that were close to us and they had some spray deodorant. I used it as a flamethrower and truly torched my t-shirt.
It was cozy to sit by the fire and watch the sunset. I just sat there, I didn't say a word. It was a wonderful experience and perhaps the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen. There were no words needed, there was nothing to be said. Our old lives were ending and although perhaps not all of us felt exactly that feeling, we could all feel something truly profound happen during those moments. When the light of the sun could no longer be seen we stood up and I hugged everyone and congratulated them on their deaths. The sky was littered with stars and I had a realization: "The end of the world is endless!" As we looked out to the sea there at the cape and now as I looked at the sky the paradox was not lost on me; the end of the world is endless! We walked together down the dark street back to town, holding each other tight in the cold night air and looked up at the endless sky and countless stars.
The night ended with a meal. Since we were dead now the calories didn't count...right? ;) We would have partied like there was no tomorrow but I was tired. It was after midnight and time to rest my weary bones. It had been an unforgettable day and my death had been beautiful. Tomorrow I would awaken and take a taxi to Muxía, Molly and I both had the same feeling at the 0.000 km marker. We were done with our walk. The legend says that in Muxía you are reborn. I looked forward to that and if it would be half as wonderful as my death, then it would still be one of the best experiences of my life!
It was kind of funny that when Katrin came in and after we turned off the lights, I felt like we were in a dorm or on a school trip, talking to each other in the dark. It felt like I'd known them forever but actually I hadn't even known them for a month!
The beds ended up being too comfortable and we slept longer than expected. We had a long day ahead of us, a long walk that is. That day was the day that we would get to the end of the world. As I've told you Finisterre was believed to be the end of the world. The legend about Finisterre says that when you get there you die. We were all facing our deaths today and were happy for it!
We started our walks as many others, with me singing. This time I was singing "Follow the yellow brick road" from "Wizard of Oz" but I had changed it slightly. We always follow yellow arrows as we travel so I sang "Follow the yellow arrows". We ended up discussing, philosophically, who we were in the story "The Wizard of Oz". Dorothy was looking for a way home, the Scare Crow was looking for a brain, the Tin man was looking for a heart and the Lion was looking for courage. I had to admit that with my discovery the day before about dedication that I was the Lion. I seemed to lack the courage to dedicate my life to any one thing, to forgo my freedom to become a master at anything really. Today that part of me would die. Today I would arrive in Finisterre and as the sun would set the old me would die.
We had a good morning and were more energetic than the day before. The way split and one way led to Muxía, where I and Molly were heading the day after. We were wondering whether we should walk there or just take a bus but the pilgrimage really ends in Finisterre. We had gone back and forth on the subject but sure enough the day would end up showing us exactly what was the right choice in the matter.
Which is sort of what happened with the walk to Finisterre. I had known about the extra 101 km walk from the beginning and on the days when I was feeling well on the Camino I was sure that I was going to walk there too. But on the days when I was feeling like shit and just walking all the way to Santiago was pain enough, I couldn't imagine walking any further. I just kept telling myself that I would decide when I was in Santiago. Even though I had decided that, the thought popped in my mind every single time I felt like I had gotten a handle on things and I was finally in good enough shape to keep going or when I felt like my body was going to fall apart and I had discovered yet another physical problem. I'm really glad I didn't decide until I was in Santiago, the victory rush was so powerful that of course I decided that I would walk all the way to Finisterre. And by God am I grateful for that decision; I would have missed out on such wonderful company, gorgeous scenery and amazing discoveries on every stage of my life. I guess I could have taken a bus, I was always going to go here, but I could as well have skipped it as doing it like that. It had to be the walk and I was on it!
We met a German couple and they had walked the north way of the Camino. He and I had a long interesting talk and he told me that she was going to Ghana next year to teach English. This has been a long standing dream for me and was one of the things I was considering to do after the Camino was over. The order in which she was doing it told me that no matter what I decide to do, I can come back to that. I can go to Africa and volunteer there even if I don't do it right now. Not everything I want to do has to happen right now, it can happen in stages. After yesterday and last night I realized that getting a steady job is the first stage of my plan, but certainly not the last. And volunteering is definitely one stage as well!
We walked all the way to a town by the sea. We hadn't seen the sea all our trip and it was quite impressive. I forgot to mention that the morning had greeted us with fog. Mysterious, magical and amazing fog! It had made the entire trip that morning a day where anything could happen, a true adventure. In the landscape we traveled in it was truly mystifying. As we came into the sea town it was so beautiful to see it in the fog. I've always loved fog and how it truly creates a world of it's own. What you can't see becomes whatever your mind wants it to be and as I wrote, you feel as if anything can happen. For those that want to know what J.J. Abrams and I have to say on the subject of mystery, you can just listen to the master here.
I was tired after walking straight for 20 km. The uneven surface of the last 5 km had left my left ankle very sore and my big toe and the toe next to it on my right foot even tenser. We stopped in the town for a while, but not long enough for my feet to recover. Now that I'm back home I realize there wasn't a long enough rest available there for my feet to recover so it doesn't really matter! ;)
As we walked the last part of the Camino, for Finisterre is truly the end, with every step we realized more and more that we were truly done. This was the end. The town Finisterre was 34 km from where we started that day and then the cape Finisterre, where the end of the world was believed to be was another 3,5 km away. When we had about 9 km left to the town and we were talking about the fact that we were done walking I said it out loud. Every step after that seemed heavier somehow. I kept going on pure willpower, I was going to make it to the end of the world.
The town was so beautiful and the coastline leading up to it made the walk to the end of town a great experience. The Albergue we were going to sleep in was full but we found a nice one not so far away. We met Ali and Robert when we got into town and decided to go to the End of the World together, the cape 3,5 km away. We left our backpacks at the Albergue and went to the municipal Albergue where you get your certificate for walking to Finisterre. You get a certificate for walking to Santiago but also for walking there and I have to say that the Finisterre one is even more beautiful than the one you get in Santiago.
As the 5 of us, Molly, Katrin, Ali, Robert and I, started our walk to the End of the World I truly noticed how much harder walking with a backpack is. Now without our backpacks we could have walked forever. We had already walked 34 km that day but without the backpack it sure didn't feel like it. Hehehe I had to walk more than 900 km to figure out exactly how much more difficult walking with a backpack is! :)
As we came closer and closer to the End of the World my super luck kicked in. The clouds started to part and we could see the sky. All day it had been foggy and cloudy. A big part of the tradition of Finisterre is to watch the sunset. No one believed that we would be able to see it today. When we were in the town and said we were going to the cape people asked us why we were going since we wouldn't see the sunset. But sure enough the sun came out to greet us and then allow us to watch it set down and mark our deaths.
At the end of the road there is a marker that reads "0.000 km". When we got to it we knew; we were done. It was a beautiful feeling. Arriving in Santiago was a much bigger feeling of victory but it wasn't until I arrived at that sign that I knew that my Camino was over. I almost missed that feeling of completion, I almost didn't walk here. I'm so glad I didn't make that mistake.
Another part of the ritual of Finisterre is to burn your clothes. As we positioned ourselves in the rocks at the end of the cape to watch the sunset I took off my t-shirt, actually the t-shirt I started the Camino with and had now ended it in, and I burned it there on the cape with the rays of the sun lighting up my ceremony. I didn't have anything to make it burn properly but some Germans that were close to us and they had some spray deodorant. I used it as a flamethrower and truly torched my t-shirt.
It was cozy to sit by the fire and watch the sunset. I just sat there, I didn't say a word. It was a wonderful experience and perhaps the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen. There were no words needed, there was nothing to be said. Our old lives were ending and although perhaps not all of us felt exactly that feeling, we could all feel something truly profound happen during those moments. When the light of the sun could no longer be seen we stood up and I hugged everyone and congratulated them on their deaths. The sky was littered with stars and I had a realization: "The end of the world is endless!" As we looked out to the sea there at the cape and now as I looked at the sky the paradox was not lost on me; the end of the world is endless! We walked together down the dark street back to town, holding each other tight in the cold night air and looked up at the endless sky and countless stars.
The night ended with a meal. Since we were dead now the calories didn't count...right? ;) We would have partied like there was no tomorrow but I was tired. It was after midnight and time to rest my weary bones. It had been an unforgettable day and my death had been beautiful. Tomorrow I would awaken and take a taxi to Muxía, Molly and I both had the same feeling at the 0.000 km marker. We were done with our walk. The legend says that in Muxía you are reborn. I looked forward to that and if it would be half as wonderful as my death, then it would still be one of the best experiences of my life!
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Dedication
We slept really well in our wonderful Albergue of San José! I'm so glad we decided to stay there and not at the Municipal Albergue. But we were all a little tired, maybe even a bit more than that, and waking up was a chore for sure. We sat down to have breakfast together and we were all a bit sluggish. That didn't change when we headed out and it was obvious that we were not as motivated as we had been to get to Santiago. The journey was beautiful though with steep climbing, breathtaking views of valley's and the countryside and there are trees everywhere here...beautiful, tall, amazing trees.
Then we stopped for lunch and the day changed. Before lunch I felt as if I was done and I just wanted to take a taxi or a bus. I hoped that it was just a fleeting thought and feeling and I talked about it with the girls. We all realized that we were not as determined as we had been before. We had achieved our goal, we had reached Santiago. Now we were heading to Finisterra, the end of the world, and it seemed like it wasn't really a "must" for us even though we really wanted to get there. But after lunch the day changed and I guess our talk about it helped us figure out what was causing our lack of drive.
We talked about profound ideas and concepts and also just joked around. After lunch the walk truly became a good Camino walk! Molly got some phone calls and we walked through the countryside which reeked of manure. After talking about everything and nothing we got to talking about movies and episodes. My vast knowledge and passion for the subject really got Molly to push me regarding why I wasn't pursuing a career in the field. I realized that it was really because of the dedication needed to get anywhere in that crazy business.
Dedication! We had finally reached the true problem regarding my search for a profession, my search here on the Camino to decide what I should do with my life. I realized that I hadn't just avoided dedication when it comes to cinematography but when it comes to anything in life; clubs, sports, work, education, just my whole life. I had avoided committing to anything that would lead to me missing out on something else. I saw that I valued freedom of choice at all moments more than what dedication could give me. That meant that I would be a jack of all trades and master of none. My constant need for not being limited by anything was really holding me back. This massive revelation, a true Camino revelation, happened after my original Camino was over. It happened in overtime, a time when so many amazing things tend to happen! My failure to dedicate myself was keeping me from making a true difference in the world. The blinders were off my eyes...what will I do now that I can see?
We walked 36 km's today, from Negreira to Olveiroa, and it was a really nice walk. About 3 km's away from Olveiroa there was a huge beautiful lake that perfected the scenery for the day. The trees are just amazing here and we're constantly climbing to the top of wonderful hills where we have a great overview of the landscape all around!
When we got to Olveiroa both the Albergue's were full. There was a small room available in the Pension next by the private Albergue. The room cost 45 euro's for the 3 of us, 15 a piece, and they would add a bed for me. It was a big bed for the girls and a really nice bed for me. We decided to take it and we have a shower for ourselves with shampoo and conditioner and again we have towels. It's a real luxury! None of us snore and it'll be amazing to sleep just the 3 of us together tonight and having a private bathroom all for us. I'm looking forward to the shower.
Psychoanalysis is really time consuming and costly. The Camino has resulted in today's revelation, perhaps a result that the psychoanalysis wouldn't have revealed. I'm so glad to keep getting more and more from this walk and I think this walk to Finisterra might truly be the most important part! I hope you're having true revelations in your lives beautiful people, revelations that might change your life forever!
Then we stopped for lunch and the day changed. Before lunch I felt as if I was done and I just wanted to take a taxi or a bus. I hoped that it was just a fleeting thought and feeling and I talked about it with the girls. We all realized that we were not as determined as we had been before. We had achieved our goal, we had reached Santiago. Now we were heading to Finisterra, the end of the world, and it seemed like it wasn't really a "must" for us even though we really wanted to get there. But after lunch the day changed and I guess our talk about it helped us figure out what was causing our lack of drive.
We talked about profound ideas and concepts and also just joked around. After lunch the walk truly became a good Camino walk! Molly got some phone calls and we walked through the countryside which reeked of manure. After talking about everything and nothing we got to talking about movies and episodes. My vast knowledge and passion for the subject really got Molly to push me regarding why I wasn't pursuing a career in the field. I realized that it was really because of the dedication needed to get anywhere in that crazy business.
Dedication! We had finally reached the true problem regarding my search for a profession, my search here on the Camino to decide what I should do with my life. I realized that I hadn't just avoided dedication when it comes to cinematography but when it comes to anything in life; clubs, sports, work, education, just my whole life. I had avoided committing to anything that would lead to me missing out on something else. I saw that I valued freedom of choice at all moments more than what dedication could give me. That meant that I would be a jack of all trades and master of none. My constant need for not being limited by anything was really holding me back. This massive revelation, a true Camino revelation, happened after my original Camino was over. It happened in overtime, a time when so many amazing things tend to happen! My failure to dedicate myself was keeping me from making a true difference in the world. The blinders were off my eyes...what will I do now that I can see?
We walked 36 km's today, from Negreira to Olveiroa, and it was a really nice walk. About 3 km's away from Olveiroa there was a huge beautiful lake that perfected the scenery for the day. The trees are just amazing here and we're constantly climbing to the top of wonderful hills where we have a great overview of the landscape all around!
When we got to Olveiroa both the Albergue's were full. There was a small room available in the Pension next by the private Albergue. The room cost 45 euro's for the 3 of us, 15 a piece, and they would add a bed for me. It was a big bed for the girls and a really nice bed for me. We decided to take it and we have a shower for ourselves with shampoo and conditioner and again we have towels. It's a real luxury! None of us snore and it'll be amazing to sleep just the 3 of us together tonight and having a private bathroom all for us. I'm looking forward to the shower.
Psychoanalysis is really time consuming and costly. The Camino has resulted in today's revelation, perhaps a result that the psychoanalysis wouldn't have revealed. I'm so glad to keep getting more and more from this walk and I think this walk to Finisterra might truly be the most important part! I hope you're having true revelations in your lives beautiful people, revelations that might change your life forever!
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Effortless ease
I forgot to tell you about my first prayer and meditation in a church. Yesterday, after the Pilgrim mass, I first used the perfectly designed Catholic church chairs to kneel and pray and then sat down and meditated. I've done that before in a church, but not on the Camino. It's kind of weird I guess that on a trip with so many churches along the way and with a religious theme to it, that now after the official Camino is done I do my first prayer and meditation within the hallowed halls. I guess it's because I'm not affiliated with any religion and so I haven't wanted it to "taint" my faith. But yesterday I could feel that wouldn't affect me in a bad way, on the contrary, it was a good experience!
After my blogging yesterday we went out for dinner. Actually I, Molly and Madeleine just hung out outside our Albergue for a while, enjoying the evening sun and nice conversations. I told Madeleine about Iceland and when I asked her "Do you know what we have in Iceland?" Her response was "Dinosaurs? Dragons?" much to my amuzement. After chatting a bit with Isabel we went into the center of town and met Katrin and Tomasz. Tomasz just returned from Finisterra. He's a great walker, very experienced and after he left us in León he walked an average of 43 km's a day. On his last days while he was on his way to Finisterra he started to feel a slight pain in his leg and he said that "pain" totally changed his walking experience. I and Katrin heard this and our jaws totally dropped. Of course the pain changed the trip!!! It was what we had been experiencing from day 1. But he being the experienced walker that he is only had a little the last days and got to experience what we experienced every day of the trip. I wonder what it's like to walk a long trip like this without pain?
We found a nice restaurant and had a great dinner. As we were leaving and walking along the streets of Santiago we heard beautiful music coming from the Cathedral. Across from it there were men singing and playing on all the different types of string insturments, dressed in old formal Spanish clothes. It was a beautiful night! Madeleine was leaving in the morning and so was Tomasz and so we said goodbye as we said goodnight, but hopefully not forever. I have a feeling we'll all see each other before long.
Katrin woke me about 7:20 and we started to get ready for our trip. It only took me one day of "slacking off" to lose my rhythm in getting ready for the day, but sure enough I was much faster than when I started the trip. The day before really hadn't been a rest day. I hadn't taken any time to elevate my legs and they were pretty swollen. My toes on my right foot were still tense and my ankle pretty tender on my left foot.
We started what would be known as our Hobbit breakfast. At the second floor of the Albergue we split an orange, our first breakfast. In the basement we bought a sandwich, our second breakfast. And then we headed off for the day, saying we'd stop later for a proper meal. As we got near to the square where the Cathedral of Santiago is we saw the 5 star hotel and restaurant that is in the square. They offer 10 lucky pilgrims a free meal, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. The first 10 to come are the ones that are served for free. Katrin looked at her clock and saw that it was 8:45 and the breakfast is at 9:00. She suggested we wait for the free 5 star breakfast and sure enough I loved the idea of another adventure. At 9:00 a man from the hotel came down to the waiting area but he said we couldn't take our bags with us but didn't really tell us where we could put them instead...he just pointed to the street. Right across from there is a police station and we were going to keep our bags there but the police men screamed at Katrin as she was walking away. Then close by there was a public restroom and Katrin said we should keep it there. I asked her if it would be safe and she said it was perfect, that it would just look like we were inside the toilets and would be out in a minute. Then she said my favorite line of the day: "No risk, no fun!" We entered the hotel and there was one other french couple that was there with us. He knew the way to where the Pilgrims were to enter, a service entrance and we were not to be seated with the other guests. We followed him into the kitchen and got all we needed for the meal and the food itself and then followed him down to the room where we would eat. Before we got into the room I thought it would look really shabby but sure enough it was this beautiful cozy room that was dedicated soly for the pilgrim's. We had our 5 star breakfast and loved it, that was breakfast number 3.
The french couple were retirees who had walked the Camino last year, the original way, and started 1500 km's away. This year they decided to take the northern route, starting in the same place in France and since it's a 100 km's longer this years trip was 1600 km's. They said the north route was much different than the normal one cause it tried ones mind more. On the traditional Camino you could see and meet a lot of people but on the northern one you travelled more alone. Being lonely is hard enough without the rest of the burdens the Camino can put on you. They were a lovely couple and we enjoyed their company immensly.
We headed out well after 10:00 and walked leisurely. I started telling Katrin about Jesus Christ Superstar and she said she had never seen it. I sang the entire second song for her, Heaven on their minds: "My mind is clearer now. At last all too well, I can see, where we all, soon will be...." as we walked the street that would lead us out of Santiago. That is without a doubt my favorite musical and perhaps my favorite music cd. I bet I could sing most of the songs and sadly, as I've realized on the Camino, that's not so common for me.
The day was perfect somehow. We enjoyed each others company and we really got to know each other. We just talked the whole time and it was so effortless. We didn't strain ourselves to find new topics or to find a way to have good time together. It was just effortless ease in what is fast becoming in my opinion the most beautiful part of the trip. The way from Santiago to Finisterra is really a sight to see and if you're planning on walking the Camino you should definetly add this to your itinerary!
We stopped in what is definetly one of the top 5 most beautiful towns I've seen on this trip and had a late lunch there. There was a river running through it and we sat by it's bank in a very nice restaurant, right where there was a beautiful waterfall. We just sat there, outside, for quite some time and even when there was silence we just felt at peace. I had taken off my shoes at first and socks to place them on a chair and this restaurant was not accustomed to pilgrims, obviously, as it took them some time to work up the courage to tell me to put my shoes back on: "this is a nice place and people are eating here!". Not even that phased us, though it seemed to make Katrin scared of the waiter, but we still just loved that town and couldn't stop enjoying the astonishing enviroment.
When we hit the road again we realized through sms's and phone calls that Molly had passed us. She had stayed behind to see her sister to the bus and headed out shortly after us. She caught up with us as we doled away our time in the beautiful waterfall town. Katrin and I laughed, thinking how slowly we had walked and how relaxed our day had been. We had in fact talked so much about the Camino, working out what we had learned from it and how it would change our lives forever. We talked about what we would do when we got back from Spain and how we would put our changes into action. Actually we talked about so many things that to write about it would be 4 blog post in itself at least. It was a great day for sure, much to Katrin's amazement. When we awoke I was my normal self, singing "Good morning, good morning..." and Katrin was sure she would be so exhausted after a whole day with me. Oh contrair my dear Katrin and we arrived more energized than when we set out at our destination at 17:00.
We had walked 23 km's from Santiago to Negreira. We found an amazing Albergue and Molly met us there. We got towels here, REAL TOWELS, and real linen for our beds. I've so missed the finer things in life like towels, soap, toilet seats, washing machines and the like on this trip. I love this Albergue, San José for the win!!!
After sharing our stories for the day, an amazing shower, washing our clothes and a visit to the supermarket it was internet time. I thought the other computer would still be free when I got back from putting what I bought at the supermarket in the fridge in the kitchen but sure enough it was taken. I was kind of pissed at myself at first but then I thought "what I should really be doing with my time right now?" and I knew it wasn't being angry. I asked Katrin if she wanted a massage and as I massaged her I could feel that she really needed it. Waiting for the computers took a while but Katrin's body was better for it. Molly then massaged me a bit as I was writing my blog and re-earned her name Molly Magic. I took a break while writing my blog to have dinner with the girls and now I'm back to finish writing about this wonderful day.
I would have thought that my amazing Camino experiences would be over but obviously my journey to the end of the world is just as much a part of the Camino. Today has been filled with learning experiences, spiritual lessons, amazing adventures, wonderful company and overcoming adversity as always! I'm so greatful for the Camino, the fact that I have the health to do it, the time to do it and the determination to do it! Thank you Camino for yet another indescribable day! :)
After my blogging yesterday we went out for dinner. Actually I, Molly and Madeleine just hung out outside our Albergue for a while, enjoying the evening sun and nice conversations. I told Madeleine about Iceland and when I asked her "Do you know what we have in Iceland?" Her response was "Dinosaurs? Dragons?" much to my amuzement. After chatting a bit with Isabel we went into the center of town and met Katrin and Tomasz. Tomasz just returned from Finisterra. He's a great walker, very experienced and after he left us in León he walked an average of 43 km's a day. On his last days while he was on his way to Finisterra he started to feel a slight pain in his leg and he said that "pain" totally changed his walking experience. I and Katrin heard this and our jaws totally dropped. Of course the pain changed the trip!!! It was what we had been experiencing from day 1. But he being the experienced walker that he is only had a little the last days and got to experience what we experienced every day of the trip. I wonder what it's like to walk a long trip like this without pain?
We found a nice restaurant and had a great dinner. As we were leaving and walking along the streets of Santiago we heard beautiful music coming from the Cathedral. Across from it there were men singing and playing on all the different types of string insturments, dressed in old formal Spanish clothes. It was a beautiful night! Madeleine was leaving in the morning and so was Tomasz and so we said goodbye as we said goodnight, but hopefully not forever. I have a feeling we'll all see each other before long.
Katrin woke me about 7:20 and we started to get ready for our trip. It only took me one day of "slacking off" to lose my rhythm in getting ready for the day, but sure enough I was much faster than when I started the trip. The day before really hadn't been a rest day. I hadn't taken any time to elevate my legs and they were pretty swollen. My toes on my right foot were still tense and my ankle pretty tender on my left foot.
We started what would be known as our Hobbit breakfast. At the second floor of the Albergue we split an orange, our first breakfast. In the basement we bought a sandwich, our second breakfast. And then we headed off for the day, saying we'd stop later for a proper meal. As we got near to the square where the Cathedral of Santiago is we saw the 5 star hotel and restaurant that is in the square. They offer 10 lucky pilgrims a free meal, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. The first 10 to come are the ones that are served for free. Katrin looked at her clock and saw that it was 8:45 and the breakfast is at 9:00. She suggested we wait for the free 5 star breakfast and sure enough I loved the idea of another adventure. At 9:00 a man from the hotel came down to the waiting area but he said we couldn't take our bags with us but didn't really tell us where we could put them instead...he just pointed to the street. Right across from there is a police station and we were going to keep our bags there but the police men screamed at Katrin as she was walking away. Then close by there was a public restroom and Katrin said we should keep it there. I asked her if it would be safe and she said it was perfect, that it would just look like we were inside the toilets and would be out in a minute. Then she said my favorite line of the day: "No risk, no fun!" We entered the hotel and there was one other french couple that was there with us. He knew the way to where the Pilgrims were to enter, a service entrance and we were not to be seated with the other guests. We followed him into the kitchen and got all we needed for the meal and the food itself and then followed him down to the room where we would eat. Before we got into the room I thought it would look really shabby but sure enough it was this beautiful cozy room that was dedicated soly for the pilgrim's. We had our 5 star breakfast and loved it, that was breakfast number 3.
The french couple were retirees who had walked the Camino last year, the original way, and started 1500 km's away. This year they decided to take the northern route, starting in the same place in France and since it's a 100 km's longer this years trip was 1600 km's. They said the north route was much different than the normal one cause it tried ones mind more. On the traditional Camino you could see and meet a lot of people but on the northern one you travelled more alone. Being lonely is hard enough without the rest of the burdens the Camino can put on you. They were a lovely couple and we enjoyed their company immensly.
We headed out well after 10:00 and walked leisurely. I started telling Katrin about Jesus Christ Superstar and she said she had never seen it. I sang the entire second song for her, Heaven on their minds: "My mind is clearer now. At last all too well, I can see, where we all, soon will be...." as we walked the street that would lead us out of Santiago. That is without a doubt my favorite musical and perhaps my favorite music cd. I bet I could sing most of the songs and sadly, as I've realized on the Camino, that's not so common for me.
The day was perfect somehow. We enjoyed each others company and we really got to know each other. We just talked the whole time and it was so effortless. We didn't strain ourselves to find new topics or to find a way to have good time together. It was just effortless ease in what is fast becoming in my opinion the most beautiful part of the trip. The way from Santiago to Finisterra is really a sight to see and if you're planning on walking the Camino you should definetly add this to your itinerary!
We stopped in what is definetly one of the top 5 most beautiful towns I've seen on this trip and had a late lunch there. There was a river running through it and we sat by it's bank in a very nice restaurant, right where there was a beautiful waterfall. We just sat there, outside, for quite some time and even when there was silence we just felt at peace. I had taken off my shoes at first and socks to place them on a chair and this restaurant was not accustomed to pilgrims, obviously, as it took them some time to work up the courage to tell me to put my shoes back on: "this is a nice place and people are eating here!". Not even that phased us, though it seemed to make Katrin scared of the waiter, but we still just loved that town and couldn't stop enjoying the astonishing enviroment.
When we hit the road again we realized through sms's and phone calls that Molly had passed us. She had stayed behind to see her sister to the bus and headed out shortly after us. She caught up with us as we doled away our time in the beautiful waterfall town. Katrin and I laughed, thinking how slowly we had walked and how relaxed our day had been. We had in fact talked so much about the Camino, working out what we had learned from it and how it would change our lives forever. We talked about what we would do when we got back from Spain and how we would put our changes into action. Actually we talked about so many things that to write about it would be 4 blog post in itself at least. It was a great day for sure, much to Katrin's amazement. When we awoke I was my normal self, singing "Good morning, good morning..." and Katrin was sure she would be so exhausted after a whole day with me. Oh contrair my dear Katrin and we arrived more energized than when we set out at our destination at 17:00.
We had walked 23 km's from Santiago to Negreira. We found an amazing Albergue and Molly met us there. We got towels here, REAL TOWELS, and real linen for our beds. I've so missed the finer things in life like towels, soap, toilet seats, washing machines and the like on this trip. I love this Albergue, San José for the win!!!
After sharing our stories for the day, an amazing shower, washing our clothes and a visit to the supermarket it was internet time. I thought the other computer would still be free when I got back from putting what I bought at the supermarket in the fridge in the kitchen but sure enough it was taken. I was kind of pissed at myself at first but then I thought "what I should really be doing with my time right now?" and I knew it wasn't being angry. I asked Katrin if she wanted a massage and as I massaged her I could feel that she really needed it. Waiting for the computers took a while but Katrin's body was better for it. Molly then massaged me a bit as I was writing my blog and re-earned her name Molly Magic. I took a break while writing my blog to have dinner with the girls and now I'm back to finish writing about this wonderful day.
I would have thought that my amazing Camino experiences would be over but obviously my journey to the end of the world is just as much a part of the Camino. Today has been filled with learning experiences, spiritual lessons, amazing adventures, wonderful company and overcoming adversity as always! I'm so greatful for the Camino, the fact that I have the health to do it, the time to do it and the determination to do it! Thank you Camino for yet another indescribable day! :)
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
It's only a 101 km walk until the end of the world
Waking up at 8:30 this morning was a great feeling. It was such a strange feeling though; I wasn't about to rush off to walk 20 km's or more! For the first time in 28 days I wasn't going to spend the majority of the day traversing Spain on foot! I laughed a little and took a shower.
Finisterra is a place in the north of Spain where the world was believed to end in olden times. People would go there, stare out at the sea and believe that they were seeing the end of the world. Some pilgrims walk there too, it's only 101 km's away from Santiago. Others take the bus there. But I'm not taking the bus! No, it's only a 101 km walk until the end of the world and tomorrow I will head out there with my friends!
But today we'll enjoy Santiago and what it has to offer for us weary pilgrims. We said goodbye to Pia and Danielle this morning as they headed out to Finisterra but we headed out downtown to find a good café for breakfast. I finally got to meet Madeleine, Molly's sister and she was every bit as amazing as she had been described. We first went to the square where the Cathedral is and there we just met a bunch of people who were arriving in Santiago right there and then. First were the german boys we met in Molinaseca. Followed by Kasha. Then we saw Junior, my favorite Brazilian. It was a jam packed emotional moment.
After the café breakfast Molly went to get her certificate, Katrin checked on her bus for after she gets back from Finisterra and I perused the local gift shops. Then at 12:00 it was time for the pilgrim mass. Every day at 12:00 there is a mass dedicated to the pilgrims and at the end they use a huge incense burner and swing it from one end of the church to another. It's a really amazing sight! After the mass I saw the remains of Saint James (Jakob, postula Jesú) in his silver coffin beneath the altar in the Cathedral. We met loads of people there as well, like Isabel, Franzi, Alex and Matze. So it was a reunion as well.
I and Katrin then headed out for the Albergue. It was time to wash our clothes and do the blog entries that I "owed". I look forward to my trip to Finisterra tomorrow but right now my mind is focused on the evening here in Santiago with my friends. We'll enjoy the sights, the food and probably the company most of all.
Stay awesome beautiful people and I look forward to keep blogging as I write about the epilogue of my trip entitled: The end of the world! ;)
Finisterra is a place in the north of Spain where the world was believed to end in olden times. People would go there, stare out at the sea and believe that they were seeing the end of the world. Some pilgrims walk there too, it's only 101 km's away from Santiago. Others take the bus there. But I'm not taking the bus! No, it's only a 101 km walk until the end of the world and tomorrow I will head out there with my friends!
But today we'll enjoy Santiago and what it has to offer for us weary pilgrims. We said goodbye to Pia and Danielle this morning as they headed out to Finisterra but we headed out downtown to find a good café for breakfast. I finally got to meet Madeleine, Molly's sister and she was every bit as amazing as she had been described. We first went to the square where the Cathedral is and there we just met a bunch of people who were arriving in Santiago right there and then. First were the german boys we met in Molinaseca. Followed by Kasha. Then we saw Junior, my favorite Brazilian. It was a jam packed emotional moment.
After the café breakfast Molly went to get her certificate, Katrin checked on her bus for after she gets back from Finisterra and I perused the local gift shops. Then at 12:00 it was time for the pilgrim mass. Every day at 12:00 there is a mass dedicated to the pilgrims and at the end they use a huge incense burner and swing it from one end of the church to another. It's a really amazing sight! After the mass I saw the remains of Saint James (Jakob, postula Jesú) in his silver coffin beneath the altar in the Cathedral. We met loads of people there as well, like Isabel, Franzi, Alex and Matze. So it was a reunion as well.
I and Katrin then headed out for the Albergue. It was time to wash our clothes and do the blog entries that I "owed". I look forward to my trip to Finisterra tomorrow but right now my mind is focused on the evening here in Santiago with my friends. We'll enjoy the sights, the food and probably the company most of all.
Stay awesome beautiful people and I look forward to keep blogging as I write about the epilogue of my trip entitled: The end of the world! ;)
We are the Champions, my friends!
I awoke at 7:10 yesterday morning in Arzúa. I had slept through my alarm clock the first time around, it rings every 10 minutes. I ended up using ear plugs last night and obviously that wasn't such a good idea when I had an alarm clock waiting for me at the other end of dreamland. But despite the fact that I had probably helped somebody else get an "earlier" start than they inteded, I woke up with a smile on my face. This would be my last day! I felt the excitement in my stomach, a roar in my mind and a feeling of determination that I really liked. I was going to walk the 40 km's to Santiago today, no matter what. This was my 28th day, I was going to make it!!!
After a nice breakfast at the café next door I set out. My fingers tingled, my whole body writhed in anticipation. I was going to make it! I was amazed at how good my body felt. A mixture of determination and my body getting used to the onslaught of rigorous exercise must have been the reason for it. I walked alone despite all the people that were there and allowed myself to be a bit of an introvert, the determination pretty much taking care of that part by itself. I stopped at a little café and met the Swedish group that had an Icelander, sort of. Smári is his name and he's Swedish but his mother lives in Keflavík in Iceland. I met them in Palas del Rei and got to speak Icelandic to someone for the first time on the trip. I was too focused to spend much time there and too excited to get caught up in long chats or bravado. I set out as fast as I could.
Kasha was also at the Albergue in Arzúa, much to my amazement. It seems that we've been somehow bound to run into each other since Molinaseca. We had slept a few beds a part and we didn't even realize it. And the last stretch to Santiago was the same. We ran into each other a couple of times, bathroom breaks or similar things parting our ways. For the most part I walked alone the first 28 km's and ate alone. I found a great restaurant for lunch and had a Pilgrim meal since they wouldn't let me order anything else. Pilgrim meal is generally a 3 course meal, but usally I just get coffee or tea after the meal instead of desert. Originally I'd get fruit or plain yogurt but as time passed I didn't have space for any more food. I had a great meal in what looked like a 5 star restaurant, went outside afterwards and aired my feet and then headed out again.
After the 28 km's I met up with Kasha again and we walked together for 7 km's. She was going to walk all the way to Santiago with me but after 35 km walk that day she was done. She needed a bed. We had a "coffee" break in that town, I had 2 liters of juice (too much as I found out when I started walking) and some peanuts. I said goodbye to Kasha and headed off the last part by myself.
I'm so glad I got to walk these last 5 km's alone. I'm not sure if they would have had as much affect on me if I would have walked them with someone else there. Coming into Santiago was such a powerful emotion! I started quivering and crying and the song "We are the Champions" started playing in my mind. First it was the part: "But it's been no bed of roses - No pleasure cruise - I consider it a challenge before the whole human race - And I ain't gonna lose - "
And I just cried and kept on walking. With every step the emotion built up more and more. I brushed it off and said that I had to wait until I'd get there, all the way to the Cathedral. Those last 5 km's must have been the longest walks I've taken on this trip. And as that walk came to it's end at a little past 19:00, I finally got into that amazing square and saw the Cathedral. All the emotional build up came back and I was crying again. Gratitude, a sence of victory, a sense of disbelief and about a thousand other amazing emotions came crashing over me and tears were my only response. Ever since Freddy Mercury first sang "We are the Champions", millions of people have celebrated their victory's to it. Now an orchestra played it in my mind. I was here. I was in Santiago de Compostela.
I had walked all the way from Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port to Santiago de Compostela in only 4 weeks! I walked every single day, all 28 of them, never taking a rest day! I did a minimum of 20 km's a day and the farthest I went was 44 km's! I never, ever entered a vehicle of any kind, I walked every step of the way! I carried my own backpack the whole way and everything in it (I even carried someone else's bag too for a little more than 1 km)! I only slept in Albergue's, never accepting any higher standard of accomodation! I had done it and even just writing about it is bringing a tear to my eye!
People have been telling me, even when I was on the train on my way to Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port, that I can't make it in 4 weeks. That it's too fast and I couldn't do it. I heard it the last time 4 days ago from a well meaning Irish man that said even the fit 20 year olds were only going to be there on Wednesday so I couldn't be there on Monday. But sure enough here I am! I DID IT!!!!!
After soaking up the moment for quite a while I went round the corner and got my certificate. It's a really cool document and I've already got a spot on my wall in mind. After that I went inside the church, that's where the walk originally ended and still does I suppose. I fell to my knees in prayer and gratitude and again I felt a tear stream down my cheek. My prayer was just one word repeated over and over again: "Takk!" (translation: Thank you). I went outside and called the person I most wanted to share this moment with; my mother! I cryed a little on the phone and was so grateful to have such an amazing connection with her. Thank you again my wonderful mother!!!
Then she asked me if any of my friends were there with me. I could only say the word "no" but as I was about to continue speaking a loud "GULLI" could be heard screamed from close by. Katrin came charging at me, followed by Pia and Danielle. My friends were here to perfect the moment! Shortly after that Molly arrived and the reunion would soon be complete. We lay down on the ground in the center of the square, I, Molly and Katrin and again soaked up the fact that we were in Santiago. Then a shadow came over me and there was my hermano, Antonello. I jumped up and we celebrated together. As we all stood there I started singing We are the Champions: "We are the champions - my friends - And we'll keep on fighting - till the end - We are the champions - We are the champions - No time for losers - 'Cause we are the champions - of the world!"
We went to dinner together at a great restaurant. I couldn't enjoy the food because I kept getting some stomach cramps but the company more than made up for any loss of food and the pain I felt. It was so good to be with my Camino family again! I had to leave a bit ahead of them since check in at the Albergue closed at 23:00. After they got back everyone went to bed but me and Antonello, we stayed up well after midnight and talked to our hearts content. I'll miss him but as I've said before I know I'll see him again. As I said to him last night: "Until we meet again!"
As I lay down to go to bed it hit me: I'm in Santiago. I fell asleep with such content, such a sense of achievement, such a sense of victory, that I...there are no words!
After a nice breakfast at the café next door I set out. My fingers tingled, my whole body writhed in anticipation. I was going to make it! I was amazed at how good my body felt. A mixture of determination and my body getting used to the onslaught of rigorous exercise must have been the reason for it. I walked alone despite all the people that were there and allowed myself to be a bit of an introvert, the determination pretty much taking care of that part by itself. I stopped at a little café and met the Swedish group that had an Icelander, sort of. Smári is his name and he's Swedish but his mother lives in Keflavík in Iceland. I met them in Palas del Rei and got to speak Icelandic to someone for the first time on the trip. I was too focused to spend much time there and too excited to get caught up in long chats or bravado. I set out as fast as I could.
Kasha was also at the Albergue in Arzúa, much to my amazement. It seems that we've been somehow bound to run into each other since Molinaseca. We had slept a few beds a part and we didn't even realize it. And the last stretch to Santiago was the same. We ran into each other a couple of times, bathroom breaks or similar things parting our ways. For the most part I walked alone the first 28 km's and ate alone. I found a great restaurant for lunch and had a Pilgrim meal since they wouldn't let me order anything else. Pilgrim meal is generally a 3 course meal, but usally I just get coffee or tea after the meal instead of desert. Originally I'd get fruit or plain yogurt but as time passed I didn't have space for any more food. I had a great meal in what looked like a 5 star restaurant, went outside afterwards and aired my feet and then headed out again.
After the 28 km's I met up with Kasha again and we walked together for 7 km's. She was going to walk all the way to Santiago with me but after 35 km walk that day she was done. She needed a bed. We had a "coffee" break in that town, I had 2 liters of juice (too much as I found out when I started walking) and some peanuts. I said goodbye to Kasha and headed off the last part by myself.
I'm so glad I got to walk these last 5 km's alone. I'm not sure if they would have had as much affect on me if I would have walked them with someone else there. Coming into Santiago was such a powerful emotion! I started quivering and crying and the song "We are the Champions" started playing in my mind. First it was the part: "But it's been no bed of roses - No pleasure cruise - I consider it a challenge before the whole human race - And I ain't gonna lose - "
And I just cried and kept on walking. With every step the emotion built up more and more. I brushed it off and said that I had to wait until I'd get there, all the way to the Cathedral. Those last 5 km's must have been the longest walks I've taken on this trip. And as that walk came to it's end at a little past 19:00, I finally got into that amazing square and saw the Cathedral. All the emotional build up came back and I was crying again. Gratitude, a sence of victory, a sense of disbelief and about a thousand other amazing emotions came crashing over me and tears were my only response. Ever since Freddy Mercury first sang "We are the Champions", millions of people have celebrated their victory's to it. Now an orchestra played it in my mind. I was here. I was in Santiago de Compostela.
I had walked all the way from Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port to Santiago de Compostela in only 4 weeks! I walked every single day, all 28 of them, never taking a rest day! I did a minimum of 20 km's a day and the farthest I went was 44 km's! I never, ever entered a vehicle of any kind, I walked every step of the way! I carried my own backpack the whole way and everything in it (I even carried someone else's bag too for a little more than 1 km)! I only slept in Albergue's, never accepting any higher standard of accomodation! I had done it and even just writing about it is bringing a tear to my eye!
People have been telling me, even when I was on the train on my way to Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port, that I can't make it in 4 weeks. That it's too fast and I couldn't do it. I heard it the last time 4 days ago from a well meaning Irish man that said even the fit 20 year olds were only going to be there on Wednesday so I couldn't be there on Monday. But sure enough here I am! I DID IT!!!!!
After soaking up the moment for quite a while I went round the corner and got my certificate. It's a really cool document and I've already got a spot on my wall in mind. After that I went inside the church, that's where the walk originally ended and still does I suppose. I fell to my knees in prayer and gratitude and again I felt a tear stream down my cheek. My prayer was just one word repeated over and over again: "Takk!" (translation: Thank you). I went outside and called the person I most wanted to share this moment with; my mother! I cryed a little on the phone and was so grateful to have such an amazing connection with her. Thank you again my wonderful mother!!!
Then she asked me if any of my friends were there with me. I could only say the word "no" but as I was about to continue speaking a loud "GULLI" could be heard screamed from close by. Katrin came charging at me, followed by Pia and Danielle. My friends were here to perfect the moment! Shortly after that Molly arrived and the reunion would soon be complete. We lay down on the ground in the center of the square, I, Molly and Katrin and again soaked up the fact that we were in Santiago. Then a shadow came over me and there was my hermano, Antonello. I jumped up and we celebrated together. As we all stood there I started singing We are the Champions: "We are the champions - my friends - And we'll keep on fighting - till the end - We are the champions - We are the champions - No time for losers - 'Cause we are the champions - of the world!"
We went to dinner together at a great restaurant. I couldn't enjoy the food because I kept getting some stomach cramps but the company more than made up for any loss of food and the pain I felt. It was so good to be with my Camino family again! I had to leave a bit ahead of them since check in at the Albergue closed at 23:00. After they got back everyone went to bed but me and Antonello, we stayed up well after midnight and talked to our hearts content. I'll miss him but as I've said before I know I'll see him again. As I said to him last night: "Until we meet again!"
As I lay down to go to bed it hit me: I'm in Santiago. I fell asleep with such content, such a sense of achievement, such a sense of victory, that I...there are no words!
This is the end
When I awoke in Palas del Rei 2 days ago I was aching and tired. I imagined that if you would look up the word weary now it would have a picture of me next to it. But I had to keep moving if I was to reach my goal, if I was to have walked the whole trip in 4 weeks. In order to achieve my goal I had 2 days left to reach Santiago and 69 km's to go. I did what I could to loosen up, stretch out my feet and ready my body. It would be a long day and in my state I wouldn't walk very fast.
The Spanish guys I met the night before were waking up at the same time as me, around 8:00. They had started in Burgos and were going by bicycle and even though they could have gotten to Santiago today they decided to do it in 2 days. We had breakfast together and I discovered that they were Police officers from the south of Spain. The knights Templar were originally formed to protect the pilgrims that walked to Santiago de Compostela. The Templar's guarded the road, "policed" it so to speak. I asked them if they had taken up where the knights had left off. Despite them denying it I now refer to them as the Knights Templar and everything in their demeanor gave me the impression that I was right. I had a great breakfast with them and our chance meeting left such an impression that we immediatly exchanged contact informations. And when I stood up to pay for breakfast I learned that the Knights had already taken care of it. I wish you the best of luck in your travels gentlemen and feel that I am richer for having gotten to know you!
I stayed behind in the dining area to pray and meditate. The waiter in the dining room was really nice and we had talked previous to my spiritual moment in his sanctuary. Afterwards he asked me for some tips on how to meditate. We must have talked together for an half an hour and it was a good morning and an excellent way to start my spiritual walk of the day. That did mean though that I didn't set out until 10:45, which is really late to start walking.
I wish I could say that all my experiences that day were good, but far from it. The day felt like the song "This is the end" by the Doors. I love the song but it's sad and depressing, heavy and filled with melancholy. I guess it's because I hoped that this would be my second to last day and all the Camino just came rushing over me. The clouds were in the sky and it was cold outside. I had to wear my fleece jacket and I could feel that my body had not fully recovered from being sick. I was tender somehow, a rush of emotions surging through me and I didn't fully comprehend what was going on. I think me being pretty weary really played a big part in my emotional rollercoaster and the added fear that because I was walking so slow I wouldn't reach Santiago before the 4 week mark. When I stopped for lunch it started raining just a little bit and I had to go out of the way to find a restaurant that had an indoor eating area. When I asked the waitress there how far it was to the next town I thought she was going to say 9 km's but she said 6 km's and I was so greatful and tender that I almost started crying. It was a weird day but I think I was processing the whole trip so far. I think this was an important part of the trip for sure.
I took regular breaks and slowly but surely I started getting my strength back. I was surprised actually how energetic I felt in the late afternoon, it was as if I was gaining energy instead of using it as I walked along the Camino. My body must be getting pretty used to me walking every single day, this being the 27th day and all. And me learning to take proper breaks, taking off my shoes and socks to let the air refresh them really makes a difference too I think.
I arrived in a small town about 17:30 and bought a small bag of Doritos and some fruit juice. In the café there was a television and on it was the movie Bruce Almighty in Spanish. Now I don't speak Spanish but I decided to have a little "movie night". It was only the last 10 minutes of the movie and I didn't understand a word but somehow watching it with my feet up on a chair and eating my bag of Doritos really invigorated me. I took my first ibufen/ibuprofen in a while there just to be sure, but in retrospect I didn't need it.
I wasn't sure I was going to make it all the way to Arzúa but sure enough I walked the 29 km's there from Palas del Rei. I felt stronger then than I did when I woke up. It seemed my body was getting more and more used to this constant walking, this constant strife. I arrived in Arzúa at 19:30 or there abouts and found my Albergue for the day. It was a nice one, but the quality of the Albergue's was always less and less important. Tomorrow would be a long day and all that was important was a bed to rest my head...the rest was details.
I met Alex and Matze there again and had dinner with them. After that I blogged and went to bed. I decided to use an alarm for the first time and since I didn't finish using the computer until a little after 23:00 I set it for 7:00. I was ready for tomorrow, ready as I'd ever be.
My lesson for today is that feeling "bad" isn't always a bad thing. Even though it wasn't pleasant going through all those emotions I think it was a neccessary part of working out everything I've felt here on the Camino. Perhaps this was even the most important part, where I could let go of the things that were holding me back and embrace the new amazing skills that the Camino has offered me. Growth often comes through pain, I think this was one of those times. I'm grateful for today as I am for all my days on this amazing journey!
The Spanish guys I met the night before were waking up at the same time as me, around 8:00. They had started in Burgos and were going by bicycle and even though they could have gotten to Santiago today they decided to do it in 2 days. We had breakfast together and I discovered that they were Police officers from the south of Spain. The knights Templar were originally formed to protect the pilgrims that walked to Santiago de Compostela. The Templar's guarded the road, "policed" it so to speak. I asked them if they had taken up where the knights had left off. Despite them denying it I now refer to them as the Knights Templar and everything in their demeanor gave me the impression that I was right. I had a great breakfast with them and our chance meeting left such an impression that we immediatly exchanged contact informations. And when I stood up to pay for breakfast I learned that the Knights had already taken care of it. I wish you the best of luck in your travels gentlemen and feel that I am richer for having gotten to know you!
I stayed behind in the dining area to pray and meditate. The waiter in the dining room was really nice and we had talked previous to my spiritual moment in his sanctuary. Afterwards he asked me for some tips on how to meditate. We must have talked together for an half an hour and it was a good morning and an excellent way to start my spiritual walk of the day. That did mean though that I didn't set out until 10:45, which is really late to start walking.
I wish I could say that all my experiences that day were good, but far from it. The day felt like the song "This is the end" by the Doors. I love the song but it's sad and depressing, heavy and filled with melancholy. I guess it's because I hoped that this would be my second to last day and all the Camino just came rushing over me. The clouds were in the sky and it was cold outside. I had to wear my fleece jacket and I could feel that my body had not fully recovered from being sick. I was tender somehow, a rush of emotions surging through me and I didn't fully comprehend what was going on. I think me being pretty weary really played a big part in my emotional rollercoaster and the added fear that because I was walking so slow I wouldn't reach Santiago before the 4 week mark. When I stopped for lunch it started raining just a little bit and I had to go out of the way to find a restaurant that had an indoor eating area. When I asked the waitress there how far it was to the next town I thought she was going to say 9 km's but she said 6 km's and I was so greatful and tender that I almost started crying. It was a weird day but I think I was processing the whole trip so far. I think this was an important part of the trip for sure.
I took regular breaks and slowly but surely I started getting my strength back. I was surprised actually how energetic I felt in the late afternoon, it was as if I was gaining energy instead of using it as I walked along the Camino. My body must be getting pretty used to me walking every single day, this being the 27th day and all. And me learning to take proper breaks, taking off my shoes and socks to let the air refresh them really makes a difference too I think.
I arrived in a small town about 17:30 and bought a small bag of Doritos and some fruit juice. In the café there was a television and on it was the movie Bruce Almighty in Spanish. Now I don't speak Spanish but I decided to have a little "movie night". It was only the last 10 minutes of the movie and I didn't understand a word but somehow watching it with my feet up on a chair and eating my bag of Doritos really invigorated me. I took my first ibufen/ibuprofen in a while there just to be sure, but in retrospect I didn't need it.
I wasn't sure I was going to make it all the way to Arzúa but sure enough I walked the 29 km's there from Palas del Rei. I felt stronger then than I did when I woke up. It seemed my body was getting more and more used to this constant walking, this constant strife. I arrived in Arzúa at 19:30 or there abouts and found my Albergue for the day. It was a nice one, but the quality of the Albergue's was always less and less important. Tomorrow would be a long day and all that was important was a bed to rest my head...the rest was details.
I met Alex and Matze there again and had dinner with them. After that I blogged and went to bed. I decided to use an alarm for the first time and since I didn't finish using the computer until a little after 23:00 I set it for 7:00. I was ready for tomorrow, ready as I'd ever be.
My lesson for today is that feeling "bad" isn't always a bad thing. Even though it wasn't pleasant going through all those emotions I think it was a neccessary part of working out everything I've felt here on the Camino. Perhaps this was even the most important part, where I could let go of the things that were holding me back and embrace the new amazing skills that the Camino has offered me. Growth often comes through pain, I think this was one of those times. I'm grateful for today as I am for all my days on this amazing journey!
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