Effortless ease

I forgot to tell you about my first prayer and meditation in a church. Yesterday, after the Pilgrim mass, I first used the perfectly designed Catholic church chairs to kneel and pray and then sat down and meditated. I've done that before in a church, but not on the Camino. It's kind of weird I guess that on a trip with so many churches along the way and with a religious theme to it, that now after the official Camino is done I do my first prayer and meditation within the hallowed halls. I guess it's because I'm not affiliated with any religion and so I haven't wanted it to "taint" my faith. But yesterday I could feel that wouldn't affect me in a bad way, on the contrary, it was a good experience!

After my blogging yesterday we went out for dinner. Actually I, Molly and Madeleine just hung out outside our Albergue for a while, enjoying the evening sun and nice conversations. I told Madeleine about Iceland and when I asked her "Do you know what we have in Iceland?" Her response was "Dinosaurs? Dragons?" much to my amuzement. After chatting a bit with Isabel we went into the center of town and met Katrin and Tomasz. Tomasz just returned from Finisterra. He's a great walker, very experienced and after he left us in León he walked an average of 43 km's a day. On his last days while he was on his way to Finisterra he started to feel a slight pain in his leg and he said that "pain" totally changed his walking experience. I and Katrin heard this and our jaws totally dropped. Of course the pain changed the trip!!! It was what we had been experiencing from day 1. But he being the experienced walker that he is only had a little the last days and got to experience what we experienced every day of the trip. I wonder what it's like to walk a long trip like this without pain?

We found a nice restaurant and had a great dinner. As we were leaving and walking along the streets of Santiago we heard beautiful music coming from the Cathedral. Across from it there were men singing and playing on all the different types of string insturments, dressed in old formal Spanish clothes. It was a beautiful night! Madeleine was leaving in the morning and so was Tomasz and so we said goodbye as we said goodnight, but hopefully not forever. I have a feeling we'll all see each other before long.

Katrin woke me about 7:20 and we started to get ready for our trip. It only took me one day of "slacking off" to lose my rhythm in getting ready for the day, but sure enough I was much faster than when I started the trip. The day before really hadn't been a rest day. I hadn't taken any time to elevate my legs and they were pretty swollen. My toes on my right foot were still tense and my ankle pretty tender on my left foot.

We started what would be known as our Hobbit breakfast. At the second floor of the Albergue we split an orange, our first breakfast. In the basement we bought a sandwich, our second breakfast. And then we headed off for the day, saying we'd stop later for a proper meal. As we got near to the square where the Cathedral of Santiago is we saw the 5 star hotel and restaurant that is in the square. They offer 10 lucky pilgrims a free meal, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. The first 10 to come are the ones that are served for free. Katrin looked at her clock and saw that it was 8:45 and the breakfast is at 9:00. She suggested we wait for the free 5 star breakfast and sure enough I loved the idea of another adventure. At 9:00 a man from the hotel came down to the waiting area but he said we couldn't take our bags with us but didn't really tell us where we could put them instead...he just pointed to the street. Right across from there is a police station and we were going to keep our bags there but the police men screamed at Katrin as she was walking away. Then close by there was a public restroom and Katrin said we should keep it there. I asked her if it would be safe and she said it was perfect, that it would just look like we were inside the toilets and would be out in a minute. Then she said my favorite line of the day: "No risk, no fun!" We entered the hotel and there was one other french couple that was there with us. He knew the way to where the Pilgrims were to enter, a service entrance and we were not to be seated with the other guests. We followed him into the kitchen and got all we needed for the meal and the food itself and then followed him down to the room where we would eat. Before we got into the room I thought it would look really shabby but sure enough it was this beautiful cozy room that was dedicated soly for the pilgrim's. We had our 5 star breakfast and loved it, that was breakfast number 3.

The french couple were retirees who had walked the Camino last year, the original way, and started 1500 km's away. This year they decided to take the northern route, starting in the same place in France and since it's a 100 km's longer this years trip was 1600 km's. They said the north route was much different than the normal one cause it tried ones mind more. On the traditional Camino you could see and meet a lot of people but on the northern one you travelled more alone. Being lonely is hard enough without the rest of the burdens the Camino can put on you. They were a lovely couple and we enjoyed their company immensly.

We headed out well after 10:00 and walked leisurely. I started telling Katrin about Jesus Christ Superstar and she said she had never seen it. I sang the entire second song for her, Heaven on their minds: "My mind is clearer now. At last all too well, I can see, where we all, soon will be...." as we walked the street that would lead us out of Santiago. That is without a doubt my favorite musical and perhaps my favorite music cd. I bet I could sing most of the songs and sadly, as I've realized on the Camino, that's not so common for me.

The day was perfect somehow. We enjoyed each others company and we really got to know each other. We just talked the whole time and it was so effortless. We didn't strain ourselves to find new topics or to find a way to have good time together. It was just effortless ease in what is fast becoming in my opinion the most beautiful part of the trip. The way from Santiago to Finisterra is really a sight to see and if you're planning on walking the Camino you should definetly add this to your itinerary!

We stopped in what is definetly one of the top 5 most beautiful towns I've seen on this trip and had a late lunch there. There was a river running through it and we sat by it's bank in a very nice restaurant, right where there was a beautiful waterfall. We just sat there, outside, for quite some time and even when there was silence we just felt at peace. I had taken off my shoes at first and socks to place them on a chair and this restaurant was not accustomed to pilgrims, obviously, as it took them some time to work up the courage to tell me to put my shoes back on: "this is a nice place and people are eating here!". Not even that phased us, though it seemed to make Katrin scared of the waiter, but we still just loved that town and couldn't stop enjoying the astonishing enviroment.

When we hit the road again we realized through sms's and phone calls that Molly had passed us. She had stayed behind to see her sister to the bus and headed out shortly after us. She caught up with us as we doled away our time in the beautiful waterfall town. Katrin and I laughed, thinking how slowly we had walked and how relaxed our day had been. We had in fact talked so much about the Camino, working out what we had learned from it and how it would change our lives forever. We talked about what we would do when we got back from Spain and how we would put our changes into action. Actually we talked about so many things that to write about it would be 4 blog post in itself at least. It was a great day for sure, much to Katrin's amazement. When we awoke I was my normal self, singing "Good morning, good morning..." and Katrin was sure she would be so exhausted after a whole day with me. Oh contrair my dear Katrin and we arrived more energized than when we set out at our destination at 17:00.

We had walked 23 km's from Santiago to Negreira. We found an amazing Albergue and Molly met us there. We got towels here, REAL TOWELS, and real linen for our beds. I've so missed the finer things in life like towels, soap, toilet seats, washing machines and the like on this trip. I love this Albergue, San José for the win!!!

After sharing our stories for the day, an amazing shower, washing our clothes and a visit to the supermarket it was internet time. I thought the other computer would still be free when I got back from putting what I bought at the supermarket in the fridge in the kitchen but sure enough it was taken. I was kind of pissed at myself at first but then I thought "what I should really be doing with my time right now?" and I knew it wasn't being angry. I asked Katrin if she wanted a massage and as I massaged her I could feel that she really needed it. Waiting for the computers took a while but Katrin's body was better for it. Molly then massaged me a bit as I was writing my blog and re-earned her name Molly Magic. I took a break while writing my blog to have dinner with the girls and now I'm back to finish writing about this wonderful day.

I would have thought that my amazing Camino experiences would be over but obviously my journey to the end of the world is just as much a part of the Camino. Today has been filled with learning experiences, spiritual lessons, amazing adventures, wonderful company and overcoming adversity as always! I'm so greatful for the Camino, the fact that I have the health to do it, the time to do it and the determination to do it! Thank you Camino for yet another indescribable day! :)