This is the end

When I awoke in Palas del Rei 2 days ago I was aching and tired. I imagined that if you would look up the word weary now it would have a picture of me next to it. But I had to keep moving if I was to reach my goal, if I was to have walked the whole trip in 4 weeks. In order to achieve my goal I had 2 days left to reach Santiago and 69 km's to go. I did what I could to loosen up, stretch out my feet and ready my body. It would be a long day and in my state I wouldn't walk very fast.

The Spanish guys I met the night before were waking up at the same time as me, around 8:00. They had started in Burgos and were going by bicycle and even though they could have gotten to Santiago today they decided to do it in 2 days. We had breakfast together and I discovered that they were Police officers from the south of Spain. The knights Templar were originally formed to protect the pilgrims that walked to Santiago de Compostela. The Templar's guarded the road, "policed" it so to speak. I asked them if they had taken up where the knights had left off. Despite them denying it I now refer to them as the Knights Templar and everything in their demeanor gave me the impression that I was right. I had a great breakfast with them and our chance meeting left such an impression that we immediatly exchanged contact informations. And when I stood up to pay for breakfast I learned that the Knights had already taken care of it. I wish you the best of luck in your travels gentlemen and feel that I am richer for having gotten to know you!

I stayed behind in the dining area to pray and meditate. The waiter in the dining room was really nice and we had talked previous to my spiritual moment in his sanctuary. Afterwards he asked me for some tips on how to meditate. We must have talked together for an half an hour and it was a good morning and an excellent way to start my spiritual walk of the day. That did mean though that I didn't set out until 10:45, which is really late to start walking.

I wish I could say that all my experiences that day were good, but far from it. The day felt like the song "This is the end" by the Doors. I love the song but it's sad and depressing, heavy and filled with melancholy. I guess it's because I hoped that this would be my second to last day and all the Camino just came rushing over me. The clouds were in the sky and it was cold outside. I had to wear my fleece jacket and I could feel that my body had not fully recovered from being sick. I was tender somehow, a rush of emotions surging through me and I didn't fully comprehend what was going on. I think me being pretty weary really played a big part in my emotional rollercoaster and the added fear that because I was walking so slow I wouldn't reach Santiago before the 4 week mark. When I stopped for lunch it started raining just a little bit and I had to go out of the way to find a restaurant that had an indoor eating area. When I asked the waitress there how far it was to the next town I thought she was going to say 9 km's but she said 6 km's and I was so greatful and tender that I almost started crying. It was a weird day but I think I was processing the whole trip so far. I think this was an important part of the trip for sure.

I took regular breaks and slowly but surely I started getting my strength back. I was surprised actually how energetic I felt in the late afternoon, it was as if I was gaining energy instead of using it as I walked along the Camino. My body must be getting pretty used to me walking every single day, this being the 27th day and all. And me learning to take proper breaks, taking off my shoes and socks to let the air refresh them really makes a difference too I think.

I arrived in a small town about 17:30 and bought a small bag of Doritos and some fruit juice. In the café there was a television and on it was the movie Bruce Almighty in Spanish. Now I don't speak Spanish but I decided to have a little "movie night". It was only the last 10 minutes of the movie and I didn't understand a word but somehow watching it with my feet up on a chair and eating my bag of Doritos really invigorated me. I took my first ibufen/ibuprofen in a while there just to be sure, but in retrospect I didn't need it.

I wasn't sure I was going to make it all the way to Arzúa but sure enough I walked the 29 km's there from Palas del Rei. I felt stronger then than I did when I woke up. It seemed my body was getting more and more used to this constant walking, this constant strife. I arrived in Arzúa at 19:30 or there abouts and found my Albergue for the day. It was a nice one, but the quality of the Albergue's was always less and less important. Tomorrow would be a long day and all that was important was a bed to rest my head...the rest was details.

I met Alex and Matze there again and had dinner with them. After that I blogged and went to bed. I decided to use an alarm for the first time and since I didn't finish using the computer until a little after 23:00 I set it for 7:00. I was ready for tomorrow, ready as I'd ever be.

My lesson for today is that feeling "bad" isn't always a bad thing. Even though it wasn't pleasant going through all those emotions I think it was a neccessary part of working out everything I've felt here on the Camino. Perhaps this was even the most important part, where I could let go of the things that were holding me back and embrace the new amazing skills that the Camino has offered me. Growth often comes through pain, I think this was one of those times. I'm grateful for today as I am for all my days on this amazing journey!